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Sep 01, 2023Here's What You Should Know About Niacinamide
If niacinamide isn’t part of your skincare routine yet, it should be.
If you're wondering what niacinamide is, know that although it might not get as much buzz as other skincare ingredients like retinol and vitamin C, the superstar is an unsung hero deserving equal praise. Niacinamide is the very definition of a multitasker, offering many different benefits that make it a great pick for various skin concerns and types, including sensitive skin. While niacinamide is an active ingredient in several affordable skincare brands, incorporating it into your existing skincare routine isn't straightforward. We asked skin experts to weigh in on everything you need to know about niacinamide—from what it is and its benefits to how to use it and their favorite products.
Simply put, niacinamide is a B vitamin, one of two forms of vitamin B3 involved in many important cellular functions of the skin, explains dermatopathologist Gretchen Frieling, MD. Also called nicotinamide, niacinamide is naturally found in some vitamin B-rich foods, including vegetables, fish, milk, and eggs. Though it's not the same as niacin (another B3 vitamin), your body can make niacinamide when too much niacin is present.
The all-star ingredient can be found in topical and oral forms. Topical niacinamide is often added to skincare products or sold as a stand-alone serum. It's generally safe to use on the skin daily with minimal side effects (e.g., itchy or red skin) and can help with various skin conditions.
Oral niacinamide, however, is meant to treat pellagra, a severe vitamin B3 deficiency. As such, oral niacinamide should only be used under a doctor's or healthcare professional's care and supervision. The oral form can affect individuals differently and may cause digestional side effects like nausea, diarrhea, or upset stomach.
Niacinamide offers many skin benefits for those with dry skin, acne, hyperpigmentation, and skin conditions like eczema. See how using niacinamide and adding this ingredient to your skincare routine can help.
Niacinamide is a great choice for anyone with acne-prone skin. "Niacinamide reduces sebum production, which can both help prevent acne and also diminish shine," says dermatologist Kenneth Howe, MD. Niacinamide is also known for its anti-inflammatory effects, which are beneficial for treating acne and conditions such as eczema, Frieling adds.
Choose a moisturizer for oily skin, like EltaMD AM Therapy Facial Moisturizer, that helps the epidermis absorb and retain moisture. Cosrx AC Collection Lightweight Soothing Moisturizer, one of the best moisturizers for sensitive skin, is a good example of a calming niacinamide-based formula for acne-prone skin.
In skincare ampoules, look for ones with a higher concentration of niacinamide if you want to control oil and reduce the look of pores. Similarly, try a makeup setting spray with niacinamide to regulate sebum production and control shine. And if you're looking for a great night cream, try Cosrx's Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Spa Mask.
Niacinamide helps strengthen the skin barrier, another major benefit for those with eczematic and sensitive skin, according to both experts. It's a choice brightening ingredient, too, combating hyperpigmentation by blocking the transfer of pigment from the pigment-producing cells (melanocytes) to the skin cells on the surface where discoloration is visible, says Howe. Try adding a serum like Cosrx Niacinamide 15% Face Serum to your product lineup.
As if all that weren't enough, there's also some data showing that niacinamide can help reduce wrinkling and photoaging, by ensuring cells function properly and helping repair DNA damage, says Howe. Even a 28-day period of using a facial cleanser and moisturizer with niacinamide showed significant improvement in wrinkle depth and length. Additionally, niacinamide promotes collagen production, which improves the skin's elasticity.
Now that you know the benefits of niacinamide for the skin, you're probably wondering how to use it for maximum results. First, you can use niacinamide products daily and add them to your evening and morning skincare ritual. In general, you'll want to apply niacinamide serum to a freshly washed face before using moisturizers or sunscreen. Plus, give each product time to absorb in the skin before applying another. Of course, if you see signs of skin irritation after trying niacinamide, stop its use and consult a medical professional.
As a general rule of thumb, niacinamide can be combined with other ingredients. That's why it's found in many skincare products, like skin peptides, and can easily be incorporated into an existing routine. Per those acne-fighting benefits, niacinamide is often paired with salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid that's a mainstay in acne products, says Frieling. Combining niacinamide's oil-reducing prowess with salicylic acid's ability to dissolve excess oil is a great way to help keep pores clear and breakouts at bay; you'll find it in several face washes for oily skin.
Niacinamide's anti-inflammatory and skin barrier-strengthening effects also make it a good option to pair with alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), chemical exfoliants with the potential to cause skin irritation. Combining these also increases the efficacy of the niacinamide, since the AHAs exfoliate the dead skin cells that could otherwise make it harder for the niacinamide to effectively penetrate, says Frieling. And finally, niacinamide is often paired with hyaluronic acid, given that both can help alleviate dryness, Frieling adds.
The one ingredient that is up for debate is vitamin C. Howe says that vitamin C can inactivate niacinamide and suggests separating the application by 15 minutes. On the other hand, though Frieling notes that there is disagreement on the topic, she says that for the two to interact negatively, they'd have to be heated. Frieling also states that more and more products are combining the two ingredients in skin-brightening formulations.
The bottom line: If you're using a product that contains both vitamin C and niacinamide, it's likely been specially formulated so they can work together. But if you're using two distinct products with these ingredients, wait 15 minutes between applications, or save one for morning use and the other for evening use.
Dermatologists say that retinol and niacinamide is a recommended combination for achieving quicker results. Niacinamide's calming benefits can also combat the negative side effects and irritation that often come alongside retinol's wrinkle-fighting magic.
Most people can use niacinamide. One of the great things about niacinamide is not only the many benefits it delivers but the fact that it's relatively well tolerated, even for people with sensitive skin, says Howe. People of all skin types can use niacinamide—from dry to oily or combination skin. To be sure it's safe, though, always apply niacinamide products to a test area of skin and observe for reactions. If you experience redness, itchiness, or further irritation, stop its use and consult a professional.
For those looking for a vegan, hypoallergenic, non-comedogenic niacinamide-based body wash, Nécessaire is one of the best. This makes it a nice alternative for those whose skin may not be able to handle more traditional acne or brightening ingredients, like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids. You can also try these dermatologist-approved niacinamide products.
Frieling says this is an all-around great face moisturizer, relying on niacinamide to help hydrate, strengthen, and repair the skin. It's especially choice for those with sensitive skin, given that it's free of potentially irritating ingredients such as synthetic fragrances and preservatives, she adds. The brand also makes a great body wash for dry skin.
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Battling breakouts? Reach for this powerful treatment, rated one of our best acne products. "This high-strength formula helps target sebum production to control oiliness and minimize pores," says Frieling (credit both namesake ingredients). Frieling adds that it also has the added benefit of helping to fade discoloration, a good option if you're dealing with dark marks from old pimples.
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Gretchen Frieling, MDKenneth Howe, MD
